Intermediate 
The Greek island of Agios Efstratios is so remote, so forgotten by the banks, the government and most of the modern world that there isnt a single ATM or credit-card machine on the island. Before the economic crisis in Greece, residents of this tranquil island in the northern Aegean managed quite well. They did their banking at the post of ce and the few dozen rooms to rent were fully booked every summer with people who had heard  by word of mouth  of its spectacular empty beaches, clear seas and fresh seafood.
But, because the island still uses only cash, the closure of the Greek banks has been devastating. Residents have to make nine-hour round trips to the nearest big island to get cash and Greek visitors say they cant get hold of enough money to come. Tourist numbers have reduced by 80% this year, said Mayor Maria Kakali, in an of ce in the village where she grew up, with a population of around 200 people. Even people born here and living in Athens, who have their own places on the island, arent coming.
Kakali has badgered the government and a major Greek bank into promising an ATM within weeks but she still feels it may be too late for this season on an island where tourism is the main source of income: We have almost no reservations in August, when usually we have people calling us up asking to  nd a room and we cant help them. A hard winter ahead may be slightly improved because 50 workers will live and work in the village to expand the harbour. But there is an even bigger crisis ahead because the government has said it will end a tax break for islands.
The tax break was created to help island communities survive the problem of mass emigration. The lower sales tax reduced the costs of living on the islands, where everything had to be imported and it made tourism more affordable. Tourist favourites such as Mykonos fear that losing the tax breaks will make it hard for them to compete with Turkey. But, for Agios Efstratios, it is a far greater problem. If we have to pay a tax of 23%, Im sorry to say it but we will all die on the island, says Kakali.